Sustainable Crochet: Natural vs. Synthetic Yarns

In recent years, there has been a pronounced shift towards sustainability in various sectors, and the realm of crafting is no exception. Crochet, a favourite hobby for many, including myself, is experiencing a renaissance with an eco-conscious twist. More and more crafters are using natural yarns. This movement towards ecological crafting highlights a collective effort to harmonize traditional techniques with contemporary environmental values, imparting a deeper significance to each stitch and pattern.

What is a sustainable yarn?

In essence, yarn can be labelled "sustainable" when its production considers a harmonious balance among environmental, human, and economic factors. This translates to manufacturing practices that prioritize preserving the earth's resources, eschewing pesticides, and ensuring animal and land welfare.

Fair treatment and compensation for yarn production workers are also integral to sustainability. While sustainable yarn often aligns with organic practices, it's crucial to note that not all organic yarn is sustainably produced.

Moreover, sustainability extends beyond the initial production and distribution phases to encompass the product's usage and its environmental repercussions thereafter.

My decision to go natural

My decision to move away from synthetic yarn started with skin irritation in my fingers during intense crocheting with acrylic yarn. I loved the vibrant acrylic yarn colours at my local craft store but started questioning my choices. A pivotal moment was when I came across a skein of buttery-soft alpaca wool.

The first pull from a twist of natural yarn felt like what yarn is supposed to be. The muted earth tones and the robust feel of these yarns honour the craft's roots, grounding it in tradition and sustainability. The transition from artificial to natural yarns transformed the essence of my crochet journey, with a newfound richness and authenticity.

The Colours of Sustainability

Natural organic yarns are often dyed using plant-based dyes derived from various sources found in nature such as Plant Extracts or Vegetable Dyes. These natural dye sources offer a colour spectrum untainted by the industrial processes of their synthetic counterparts. These hues are not just nature’s gift to our aesthetically keen eyes; they signify a direct link to local harvest cycles, supporting regional traditions and crafts.

Let’s look at some natural and synthetic yarns in more detail.

Natural vs Synthetic Yarn

Natural Yarns

Natural yarns, also known as eco-friendly or sustainable yarns, are made from materials like cotton, linen, bamboo, hemp, and wool that are grown or harvested without harmful chemicals or pesticides. These yarns have a lower environmental impact and offer numerous benefits for both the maker and the end user.

One of the main arguments for using natural yarns in crochet is their environmental impact. Traditional yarns made from synthetic materials such as acrylic, nylon, and polyester are not biodegradable and contribute to the growing issue of microplastic pollution. On the other hand, natural yarns can break down easily in the environment without causing harm.

Many synthetic yarns are treated with harsh chemicals that can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions, something I experienced first-hand. Natural yarns are free from these chemicals, making them safer if you have sensitive skin.

Let’s look at some natural yarns:

Cotton farm

Cotton Yarn

Soft, breathable, and versatile, cotton yarn is derived from the cotton plant's fibers. It's great for making lightweight garments and is easy to care for.

Cotton is often viewed as a sustainable yarn choice, however, it’s connected to significant challenges due to its high water consumption and heavy reliance on pesticides. The World Wildlife Fund highlights that cotton farming stands out for its extensive pesticide use, leading to freshwater pollution from fertilizers and pesticides, inefficient water usage, and salinization, presenting significant environmental concerns.

Opting for eco-friendly organic cotton offers a slight improvement as it eliminates the use of pesticides; however, cotton plants still demand substantial water resources. When seeking cotton yarn, prioritize products from organic producers who harness harvested rainwater for irrigation, promoting a more sustainable approach to cotton cultivation.

It's essential to note that recycled cotton textile yarns may incorporate cotton from sources lacking sustainability in their recycling processes. While reusing these fabrics may appear more environmentally conscious than supporting unsustainable cotton production, it poses an ethical dilemma. Striking a balance between sustainability and ethical considerations is vital when navigating the complexities of cotton yarn choices.

Wool

Known for its warmth and elasticity, wool yarn comes from sheep's fleece. It can be soft or coarse depending on the breed of the sheep. It is widely considered as the epitome of sustainable yarn. Wool is sourced naturally from sheep, allowing for gentle "harvesting" without any harm to the animals. Through processing methods with a low or even zero carbon footprint, wool is a environmentally friendly choice.

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Did you know that sheep play a remarkable role in carbon sequestration?

By consuming carbon in the plants they graze on, carbon becomes encapsulated within their wool, making sheep effective carbon neutralizers!

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Once the wool is transformed into yarn, its longevity surpasses that of many other fibre products. Wool requires minimal washing and can withstand lower temperatures, further enhancing its sustainability profile. Unlike synthetic fibres, wool does not shed micro-plastics, which are notorious for contributing to ocean pollution.

The recyclability of wool is another standout feature. Whether unraveling for reuse or repurposing as felted textiles, wool offers versatility in recycling efforts, accounting for a notable 5% of the global recycled textile market.

As a natural fiber, wool excels in biodegradability, avoiding the issue of microplastic pollution. Opting for locally produced wool reduces carbon emissions associated with transportation, adding another layer of eco-friendliness to this already sustainable choice.

In essence, wool stands out as the premier yarn for sustainable slow fashion, embodying a harmonious blend of environmental consciousness and enduring quality.

Alpaca

Alpaca yarn is soft, lightweight, and warmer than wool. It comes from the fleece of alpacas and is hypoallergenic.
Alpacas are raised in a way that often eliminates the need for pesticides, contributing to a more eco-friendly production process. These graceful animals yield high-quality fibre, emphasizing sustainability in their cultivation.

While alpaca fibre is celebrated for its softness and warmth, its transformation into yarn requires meticulous processing.
Initially, the fibre may resemble a ball of fine wool, undergoing careful preparation, blending, and spinning to enhance its texture and quality. The raw alpaca fibres are cleaned to remove dirt, dust, and impurities acquired during shearing. This process may involve washing the fibres with eco-friendly detergents and water to achieve cleanliness without damaging the fibres.

The biodegradability of alpaca yarn supports sustainable disposal practices and reduces waste accumulation. Furthermore, it's worth noting that some alpaca yarn manufacturers uphold stringent ethical and environmental standards throughout their production processes. By prioritizing sustainable practices and transparency, these brands set a benchmark for responsible fibre production

Linen

Made from the fibres of the flax plant, linen yarn is strong, absorbent, and perfect for summer garments due to its breathability.

Linen yarn is celebrated as a sustainable fibre choice, derived from the flax plant, linen boasts a rapid growth cycle without the reliance on pesticides, embodying eco-conscious production practices. Flax cultivation yields a versatile fibre that offers breathability and durability, positioning linen as a favoured material in the textile industry.

Despite its eco-friendly attributes, linen processing plays a crucial role in shaping the final yarn. The initial stages involve extracting the fibres from the flax plant, followed by intricate spinning and weaving processes to create the characteristic linen yarn texture. It's important to consider the origins of linen yarn and the processing methods employed by manufacturers.

Silk

Silk is a luxurious and highly sought-after fibre. Produced naturally by silkworms, silk is renowned for its lustrous sheen and soft texture, making it a popular choice in high-end textile applications. Silk is a natural fibre that decomposes over time, reducing its environmental impact. In addition, silkworms can continuously produce silk, making it a renewable resource.

Silk production involves the cultivation of silkworms and harvesting their cocoons marks the beginning of a meticulous process to transform raw silk into yarn.

Some traditional silkworm farming practices may use pesticides to protect mulberry trees (the silkworms' food source) from pests, organic and eco-friendly methods are increasingly being adopted to minimize chemical usage.

Bamboo

Bamboo is made from bamboo grass fibres and is considered a highly sustainable fibre. This fast-growing crop thrives without the need for pesticides, boasting robust yields. However, the majority of bamboo production is concentrated in China, raising questions about the intensity of cultivation and potential habitat disruption for this lucrative cash crop. Despite its natural resilience to pests, some bamboo cultivation practices may involve pesticide use to enhance harvest yields.

The process of transforming bamboo into yarn requires intensive processing. Similar to linen, bamboo fibres undergo meticulous preparation, combing, and spinning to achieve a desirable texture. The process involves chemical treatments to break down the bamboo fibres, ensuring they are pliable enough for spinning. Concerns arise as certain manufacturers may not adequately address the disposal of waste chemicals associated with this process.

Look out for companies that adhere to a "closed-loop" system that recycles 99% of the chemical solution used in production, promoting a more environmentally conscious approach.

Hemp

Hemp yarn is durable, strong, and gets softer with each use. It comes from the fibres of the hemp plant and stands out as a versatile and sustainable fibre choice.

Cultivated from the hemp plant, it requires minimal pesticides and water, making it a highly sustainable option in the textile industry. Known for its strength and durability, hemp fibre is gaining popularity for its diverse applications in clothing, accessories, and home textiles.

Transforming hemp into yarn involves steps to extract and refine the fibres. Initially, hemp fibres may have a coarse texture, but through careful processing, blending, and spinning, they are crafted into soft and versatile yarn suitable for various crochet projects. Hemp yarn's natural properties make it an excellent choice for sustainable and long-lasting creations.

Environmental considerations play a significant role in hemp production, with many manufacturers embracing organic farming practices to reduce environmental impact.

Jute

Jute yarn is strong, durable, and has a rustic appearance. It's made from the fibrous stalks of the jute plant and is often used for creating rugs, and other home decor items.

This eco-friendly fibre is known for its versatility and biodegradability, making it a popular yarn choice. With minimal pesticide requirements and high yields per acre, jute stands out as an environmentally conscious material in the textile industry.

Creating jute yarn involves extraction and processing of the fibres to achieve the desired texture and quality. Through spinning and weaving processes, coarse jute fibres are refined into soft and durable yarn ideal for crochet projects.

In conventional jute farming, pesticides may be used to manage pests and diseases that affect jute plants. This can include insecticides, fungicides, and herbicides to ensure successful crop yields.

However, organic jute farming practices prioritize natural pest control methods and refrain from using synthetic pesticides. Instead, organic farmers may employ techniques like crop rotation, biological pest control, and organic fertilizers.

The primary processing stage for jute fibres involves retting, where the jute stems are soaked in water to facilitate fibre extraction. Chemical retting methods involve the use of alkaline solutions to hasten the process, while traditional methods rely on microbial action.

Tencel

Tencel is a cellulosic fibre produced from sustainably sourced wood pulp, commonly derived from eucalyptus trees. Known for its softness, breathability, and moisture-wicking capabilities, Tencel yarn is popular in clothing and home textiles.

Eucalyptus trees grow rapidly without the need for extensive irrigation or pesticides, reducing water consumption and environmental impact compared to traditional cotton cultivation. Tencel yarn is manufactured through a closed-loop production process, where solvents used to break down the wood pulp are recycled and reused. This closed-loop system minimizes waste and chemical emissions, contributing to a more sustainable manufacturing process.

The solvent used in Tencel production is typically non-toxic and biodegradable, further reducing the environmental footprint of the fiber. Compared to other cellulose fibers like viscose, Tencel's production process involves fewer harmful chemicals and emissions.

Nettle Yarn

Nettle yarn is made from fibers extracted from the stems of the stinging nettle plant. This eco-friendly yarn is naturally durable, hypoallergenic, and resistant to bacteria. Nettle cultivation requires minimal water and pesticides, making it a sustainable choice for textiles. The fibers have a unique texture and can be blended with other materials for added strength and versatility.

Nettle plants grow abundantly in various climates without the need for synthetic fertilizers or pesticides, making them a low-impact crop. Cultivating nettles for fiber production requires minimal water compared to water-intensive crops like cotton, reducing the strain on water resources.

The fibers used for nettle yarn are extracted from the stem of the nettle plant through a process called retting, which can be done using natural or eco-friendly methods. Traditional retting techniques involve soaking the nettle stems in water to break down the plant material and extract the fibers.

Nettle yarn is biodegradable, meaning it naturally decomposes at the end of its lifecycle without harming the environment.

Nettle fibers are known for their durability and strength, resulting in long-lasting textiles that reduce the need for frequent replacements. They also have a high yield per acre compared to other fiber crops, requiring less land for cultivation and potentially reducing deforestation for agricultural purposes.

Seaweed Yarn

Seaweed yarn is a bio-based fiber created from seaweed or algae extracts. Rich in nutrients and minerals, seaweed yarn offers natural antimicrobial properties and UV protection. The production of seaweed yarn typically involves innovative technologies that harness the regenerative capabilities of marine resources, contributing to sustainable textile production.

Seaweed is a renewable marine resource that grows rapidly and does not require arable land or freshwater for cultivation, reducing pressure on terrestrial ecosystems. Responsible seaweed farming practices promote biodiversity in marine environments and contribute to ocean health.

Alginate, a compound extracted from seaweed, serves as the primary material for spinning seaweed yarn. The extraction process typically involves eco-friendly methods to obtain alginate without significant environmental impact.

Seaweed yarn possesses natural antimicrobial properties, reducing the need for chemical treatments to impart these functionalities in textiles. This inherent quality of seaweed fibres contributes to sustainable textile production by minimizing the use of synthetic antimicrobial agents.

These innovative fibres not only reduce the reliance on traditional materials but also promote biodiversity, resource conservation, and circular economy practices within the textile industry.

Synthetic Yarns

Synthetic yarns are made from petroleum-based products such as acrylic or nylon, which require extensive chemical processing to achieve their desired properties. This process involves the use of toxic chemicals that can be harmful to both humans and the environment. These chemicals can leach into waterways, polluting our oceans and harming aquatic life.

Additionally, the production of these synthetic yarns also contributes to air pollution, further exacerbating the environmental impact. By choosing natural yarns, we can reduce our carbon footprint and minimize our contribution to these harmful processes.

Here is a list of synthetic yarns:

Acrylic

Acrylic yarn is soft, lightweight, and easy to care for. It's known for its durability and affordability, making it a popular choice for a wide range of projects.

Acrylic yarn is a synthetic fibre widely used in the textile industry as a cost-effective alternative to natural fibres like wool.
Acrylic yarn is produced through a chemical process involving polymers derived from petroleum-based substances.
This manufacturing method allows for the creation of yarn with various textures, colours, and properties, making it a versatile option for knitting and crocheting projects.

However, there are concerns regarding the environmental impact of acrylic yarn production. The production process of acrylic yarn involves the use of non-renewable resources such as fossil fuels, which contribute to carbon emissions and the depletion of natural resources. Additionally, the disposal of acrylic yarn products can pose challenges, as acrylic fibres are not biodegradable and can persist in the environment for extended periods.

Furthermore, the microfibers shed from acrylic yarn during washing can enter waterways and marine ecosystems, potentially causing harm to aquatic life and contributing to plastic pollution. In response to these environmental concerns, there is a growing emphasis on sustainable alternatives to acrylic yarn, such as recycled acrylic or natural fibres that have less of an environmental impact.

Polyester

Polyester yarn is strong, wrinkle-resistant, and retains its shape well making it a popular choice for a wide range of textile applications including clothing, home furnishings, and industrial materials. It's often blended with other fibres to add durability and stretch.

Polyester yarn is produced through a complex chemical process involving petroleum-based substances.

However, the production and disposal of polyester yarn have significant environmental effects. The manufacturing of polyester yarn requires the extraction and refinement of non-renewable resources such as crude oil, leading to carbon emissions, energy consumption, and environmental pollution. Additionally, the chemical processes involved in producing polyester yarn can release harmful byproducts into the air and water, contributing to environmental degradation

One of the major concerns surrounding polyester yarn is its lack of biodegradability. Polyester fibres can persist in the environment for hundreds of years, leading to microplastic pollution in soil and water bodies. When polyester garments are washed, they shed microfibers that eventually end up in the oceans, posing a threat to marine life and ecosystems.

To address the environmental impact of polyester yarn, sustainable initiatives such as recycling polyester waste and reducing the use of virgin polyester are gaining traction. By promoting circular economy practices and encouraging the adoption of eco-friendly alternatives, such as recycled polyester or bio-based fibers, the textile industry can mitigate the environmental footprint of polyester yarn production and contribute to a more sustainable future.

Nylon

Nylon yarn is exceptionally strong, it's commonly used in socks, activewear, and accessories for its durability and elasticity.
However, despite its beneficial properties, the production and disposal of nylon yarn raise significant environmental concerns

Nylon yarn is produced through a chemical process that involves the polymerization of specific compounds derived from petroleum. This manufacturing process requires significant energy consumption and the release of greenhouse gases, contributing to carbon emissions and global warming.

Furthermore, the extraction of fossil fuels for nylon production can lead to habitat destruction and environmental degradation.

One of the primary environmental issues associated with nylon yarn is its non-biodegradability. Nylon fibres can persist in the environment for hundreds of years, posing a threat to wildlife and ecosystems. When nylon garments are washed, they shed microfibers that can enter water bodies, leading to pollution and potential harm to aquatic life.

By promoting sustainable practices such as closed-loop recycling and the development of bio-based alternatives, the textile industry can work towards minimizing the environmental footprint of nylon yarn production and fostering a more eco-friendly approach to textile manufacturing.

Polypropylene

Polypropylene yarn is lightweight, moisture-wicking, and quick-drying. It's often used for textile applications, including outdoor gear, carpets, and upholstery, due to its resistance to stains, mold, and mildew.

The production of polypropylene yarn involves the extraction of propylene from petroleum-based sources, followed by polymerization to create the long chains of molecules that form the fibre. While polypropylene is considered one of the more environmentally friendly synthetic fibres due to its lower energy consumption and emissions compared to other plastics, there are still concerns regarding its impact on the environment.

One of the primary environmental issues associated with polypropylene yarn is its non-biodegradability. Polypropylene fibres can persist in the environment for extended periods, contributing to plastic pollution in landfills and water bodies. Additionally, the disposal of polypropylene products can release microplastics into the environment, posing risks to wildlife and ecosystems.

Microfiber

Microfiber yarn is incredibly soft, fine, and lightweight. It's known for its moisture-wicking properties and is often used in garments that require a luxurious feel.

Microfiber yarn is produced through a specialized manufacturing process that involves spinning ultra-fine fibres typically made from polyester or nylon. These incredibly fine fibres, often less than one denier in diameter, are woven together to create yarn that is lightweight, durable, and highly versatile.

The manufacturing of microfiber yarn involves the extensive use of fossil fuels and the release of greenhouse gases, contributing to carbon emissions and climate change. Additionally, the shedding of microfibers during the washing of garments made from microfiber yarn can lead to microplastic pollution in water bodies, posing risks to marine life and ecosystems.

The non-biodegradable nature of microfiber yarn further exacerbates its environmental impact. Microfibers released into the environment can persist for long periods, accumulating in soil and water systems. As these tiny fibers are difficult to filter out during wastewater treatment, they can end up polluting oceans and waterways, potentially causing harm to aquatic organisms.

Fleece

Fleece yarn is made from synthetic fibres like polyester or acrylic. It's soft, warm, and commonly used in cosy blankets, sweaters, and outerwear.

Fleece yarn is typically made from polyester fibres that are derived from petroleum-based sources. The production of fleece yarn involves a process where the polyester fibres are spun and knitted into a fabric that mimics the texture of wool.

The production and disposal of fleece yarn have notable environmental implications. The manufacturing of fleece yarn requires the extraction of fossil fuels and energy-intensive processes, leading to carbon emissions and contributing to climate change. Additionally, the disposal of fleece products can exacerbate environmental issues due to the non-biodegradable nature of polyester fibers.

One of the primary concerns surrounding fleece yarn is microfiber pollution. When fleece garments are washed, they release tiny plastic microfibers into wastewater, which can end up in oceans and water bodies, posing risks to aquatic life and ecosystems. These microfibers are challenging to filter out during wastewater treatment, further perpetuating the issue of microplastic pollution.

Lycra

Lycra, also known as spandex or elastane, is highly elastic and provides stretch and recovery to fabrics, it’s a popular choice for activewear, swimwear, and form-fitting garments. It's often blended with other fibres to add flexibility to clothing.

Lycra yarn is produced through a chemical process that involves the polymerization of a specific compound called polyurethane. This process results in fibres that can stretch significantly without losing their shape.

In addition, the manufacturing process involves the use of various chemicals and energy-intensive processes, contributing to carbon emissions and environmental pollution.

The non-biodegradable nature of lycra fibres further exacerbates their environmental impact. Lycra fibres can persist in the environment for extended periods, adding to the issue of plastic pollution in landfills and oceans. Moreover, the complex composition of lycra fibres makes them challenging to recycle, limiting sustainable disposal options for lycra-containing textiles.

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When considering synthetic yarns, it's important to acknowledge some of the negative impacts they can have on the environment and users:

• Environmental Impact:

  • Microplastic Pollution: Synthetic yarns like polyester and nylon shed microfibers when washed, contributing to microplastic pollution in water bodies.

  • Non-Biodegradable: Most synthetic yarns are non-biodegradable, leading to increased waste in landfills and posing long-term environmental challenges.

  • Resource Intensive: The production of synthetic yarns often involves the use of fossil fuels and chemicals, contributing to carbon emissions and environmental degradation.

• User Health Concerns:

  • Skin Irritation: Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergies when wearing garments made from certain synthetic yarns due to chemical treatments or processing.

  • Breathability: Synthetic yarns may not be as breathable as natural fibers, leading to discomfort for some users, especially in warm climates.

  • Sustainability Concerns: Environmentally conscious Users may be concerned about the sustainability of synthetic yarns and their impact on the planet.

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The Durability Dilemma

Friends of mine often voice concerns over the cost and longevity of natural yarns. While it’s true that some may be initially pricier than synthetic yarns, the long-term investment cannot be ignored. Natural fibres often outlast synthetic ones, retaining their shape and strength through the years, turning natural yarn into an investment that endures.

Supporting the use of natural yarns could involve advocating for fair-trade practices, seeking out local artisan yarns, or even natural dyeing techniques – all of which contribute to the sustainability of the craft, both economically and ecologically.

Crafting a Sustainable Future

By embracing sustainable materials, you make a conscious effort to minimize your impact on the environment and create a better future for generations to come. So let's make mindful choices when crafting and inspire others to do the same.

I’m excited to continue exploring the endless possibilities of using natural yarns in my crochet projects.

What’s your favourite yarn? I would love to know what you are working with.

Happy crocheting!

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